Materials: Epoxy

Tools: Drill, pencil, pliers, screwdriver

Now that the timer is assembled, we can set about making a few minor adjustments to fit the cradle to the camera. The instructions for the shutter-lever assembly up to this point have assumed we are using a Kodak MAX single-use camera. It is pretty easy, however, to adapt the cradle to other camera geometries.

9a. Attach rubber bands to timer tube.

Start by taking a couple of #31 rubber bands [U] and hitching them to the brass outer timer tube as shown in the image. Just run the rubber band around the tube and then back through itself.

9b. Attach camera to cradle.

Take your camera and fasten it to the cradle using the two rubber bands. I allow the bands to cross over each other as they go over the camera, and then secure them to the pegs at the top of the backplane. 

9c. Adjust shutter lever location.

Examine the relationship between the camera’s shutter button and the long shutter lever. If the center gap of the long shutter lever is centered over the shutter button, you are in good shape. If an adjustment is required, you can shift this center gap by changing the size of the nylon spacer [AG] or mounting the shutter nubbin [P] on one of the outer faces of the shutter lever.

9d. Position shutter nubbin.

Find the shutter nubbin [P], made from a craft stick remnant, and place it in the center gap of the long shutter lever. Adjust its position to the left or right of the cradle until it’s over the center of the camera’s shutter button. Mark the nubbin’s position on the long shutter lever and the long shutter lever’s position on the nubbin with a pencil.

9e. Attach shutter nubbin to lever.

Once the shutter nubbin location is established, remove the shutter-lever assembly from the cradle and drill a 7/64″-diameter hole for the 4-40 bolt [AD] that secures the shutter nubbin to the lever arms.

Use your pencil-mark guides to make sure the two parts are correctly aligned. Install the bolt, tighten it enough to secure the shutter nubbin, and remount the shutter-lever assembly on the cradle.

9f. Install a third #31 rubber band on the outer timer tube “hitching rail” and remount the camera. Route this compression band past the front of the camera, over the shutter nubbin, and secure it on a backplane peg. Install a fourth #31 rubber band on the end of the short shutter lever. Just poke it through the 5/32″-diameter hole and loop it through itself. This tension band will connect to the Silly Putty timer.

9g. It is time to test your Silly Putty timer. (Insert sound of drum roll here.) Follow these steps:

i) Place a test camera in the cradle.

ii) Turn the release pin on the inner timer tube to a position level with the ground or slightly downward.

iii) Pull the short shutter lever downward and slip the tension/linkage rubber band over the timer tube pin.

iv) Make sure the shutter nubbin is now raised clear of the shutter button.

v) Cock the camera by advancing its thumbwheel film advance.

vi) Wait patiently while the timer release pin rotates slowly to face upward. This can take a long time when the Silly Putty is freshly installed. 

vii) When the shutter fires, you can dance the jig of joy and hug your neighbors. Ta da!

The initial tuning of your timer is largely an exercise in balance. You can adjust forces in the system. For instance, stretching a rubber band a few times will loosen it and lessen its driving force. Putting an extra turn of rubber band at a connection point will effectively shorten it and increase its driving force. Make adjustments of this sort until the short shutter lever causes the shutter nubbin to hover just above the shutter button when the system is cocked. When the tension band slips the timer pin, the compression band should have ample force to fire the shutter.