On my YouTube channel I build things that inspire me — sometimes that’s a new movie, sometimes a video game from a decade ago. My latest project is one I’ve had on my list for quite some time: a full set of traditional samurai armor! Like my other projects, free patterns for this are on my site if you’d like to make one too.
As a seasoned prop maker I have worked with lots of different media over the years, from clay and resin to 3D modeling and foam. EVA foam is by far my favorite! In the cosplay community I’m known as a “foamsmith,” or one who specializes in foam fabrication. EVA is one of the best materials to build with, especially for Makers new to foamsmithing, because it is lightweight, inexpensive, and extremely versatile. Once you learn the fabrication techniques you can make foam look like skin, wood, rock, bone, and metal!
The Leather Look
Traditionally, samurai armor was made of iron plates or strips of leather, lacquered to harden the surface and to protect them from the elements. To simulate a leather texture on the foam, I’m going to use one of my favorite tricks, the tinfoil technique. EVA foam takes heat well and if you press into it while it’s soft, that will leave the surface embossed with the applied design or texture. You can press lots of different materials and shapes into the foam to give it a unique look.
Before you start, let’s talk about safety: Always wear a proper respirator and eye protection when heating or sanding foam. Lightly heat the surface of the 4mm foam with a heat gun, moving it back and forth and taking care not to overheat the foam, because it is possible to burn or melt the surface. Once the foam has softened, quickly press some crumpled-up tinfoil into the surface. If necessary, you can rotate the foil ball to give the embossed pattern a more random appearance.
Once the foam cools the applied texture will remain in the foam, unless the foam is reheated, in which case it will bounce back to its original shape. So this is a finishing process that should be done at the end of your build, right before paint and primer are added. Once the foam has been sealed with a product like Plasti Dip, Rosco Flexbond, Creature Cast, or Mod Podge, the textures will be locked in.
The Power of Paint
That leads us to what could be the most important part of prop making, and that is painting. I’ve been a builder for 10 years, but as a traditionally trained illustrator I’ve been painting for 30. Almost all of my projects are hand painted. After sealing the foam, I’ll usually do a light dusting of a rattle-can spray paint to act as a base layer of color. This is especially important if you’re going to have a lighter color as your end product such as gray, white, or yellow.
Next, heavy body acrylics are applied in washes or dry-brushing methods to highlight the details carved into the foam. It doesn’t do any good to have a bunch of intricate details or battle damage if you don’t make them pop.
You can have a great prop and a poor paint job can ruin it. Or you can have an OK prop and a fantastic paint job can save the day. While painting, I recommend having reference pictures available, to make sure you’re getting the correct amount of contrast and weathering. With this armor, I took it a step further and added some Fuller’s earth dust just to age the piece and give it another level of detail.
Check out this and the other free projects on my channel and start your journey to becoming a foamsmith!
This article appeared in Make: Volume 86.