The Rolex Perpetual 1908 brings a fresh perspective to the brand’s tradition of dress watches. Since its founding in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex has been a hallmark of precision, innovation, and elegance in watchmaking. The Perpetual 1908 continues this legacy, merging classic elements with modern sophistication. The latest model for 2024 introduces new materials and design refinements, ensuring it remains at the forefront of luxury timepieces.
Designer: Rolex
This model captures Rolex’s original boldness. Since the brand’s inception, Rolex has pursued Wilsdorf’s vision of wristwatches as high-performance instruments. This watch combines chronometric precision, waterproofness, autonomy, comfort, and durability. It embodies the classic yet modern spirit of the original Oyster Perpetual watches, with a silhouette and dial design that reimagines these timeless elements.
Initially available in 18-karat yellow gold and white gold, paired with either an intense white or matte black dial, the latest update introduces a new 950 platinum version. This version features an ice blue dial exclusive to Rolex watches in this prestigious metal. The case measures 39 mm, balancing presence and comfort on the wrist. The bezel combines domed and fluted design, adding elegance without ostentation. The transparent case back reveals the intricate workings of the movement, showcasing the brand’s commitment to aesthetics and performance.
The dials for the Perpetual 1908 include intense white, matte black, and now an ice blue with a guilloche rice-grain motif. This intricate pattern is created through traditional guillochage, reflecting light beautifully. The dial features Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, with faceted index hour markers in 18-karat gold. The small seconds counter at 6 o’clock is centered within the rice-grain motif, enhancing the dial’s sophisticated look.
The hands are distinctive, with the minute hand shaped like a two-edged sword and the hour hand featuring a pierced circle. These elements blend historical inspiration with modern elegance, maintaining the watch’s refined aesthetic.
At the heart of the Perpetual 1908 is the caliber 7140, a self-winding movement developed in-house by Rolex’s watchmaking engineers. This movement drives the hands of the central hours and minutes and the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. It incorporates several of Rolex’s cutting-edge technologies, including the Syloxi silicon hairspring and the Chronergy escapement made of a nickel-phosphorus alloy, both resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement also features Paraflex shock absorbers, protecting the oscillator and escape wheel from shocks. With a power reserve of 66 hours, the caliber 7140 combines performance and elegance. Patents have been filed for this movement, entirely developed and manufactured in-house.
The 2024 model features an ice blue dial decorated with a rice-grain motif, achieved through guillochage. This rosette-like design, centered on the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, gives the watch exceptional personality and is a tribute to traditional watchmaking infused with Rolex’s know-how and creativity.
The 950 platinum case, a rare and precious material, is striking for its incomparable radiance and silvery white glow. Considered the noblest of metals, it is noted for its exceptional corrosion resistance. The case has gracious lines and a transparent back that allows the refined aesthetics of the movement and the pivoting of the oscillating weight to be admired.
By offering a watch that reveals its movement through a transparent case back, Rolex continues to innovate while echoing its watchmaking tradition. The caliber 7140 features a cut-out oscillating weight in yellow gold with three arms engraved with the words “Chronometer Perpetual” and benefits from an optimized ball bearing. The movement boasts remarkable finishes, including the exclusive Rolex Côtes de Genève, a celebrated traditional watch decoration reinterpreted with a polished groove between each band. The sapphire window, virtually scratchproof, proves that for Rolex, the aesthetics of the movement are as important as its performance.
Introducing the Perpetual 1908 signifies a new direction for Rolex dress watches, blending the brand’s rich heritage with modern innovation. By launching the Perpetual collection and retiring the Cellini line, Rolex reaffirms its commitment to creating technically superior and timelessly elegant timepieces. This model sets a new standard for dress watches, combining historical elements with contemporary design and cutting-edge technology.
Future Rolex dress watches will continue to explore the balance between classic aesthetics and modern advancements. The transparent case back, showcasing the movement, indicates a willingness to innovate while honoring traditional watchmaking artistry. The movement’s use of advanced materials and technologies highlights Rolex’s dedication to performance and durability.
The Perpetual 1908 captures the essence of Rolex’s pursuit of excellence, blending past and future in a luxurious timepiece that speaks to the brand’s storied history and its vision for the future of dress watches.